There is something special, something magical, that authentic designers embody in story-telling without actually using words. Last night, at the Kings Theatre, Pyer Moss Spring 2020 fashion show, the brand did just that. And more.
The collection was part of the three-part “American, Also.” collection, created to tell the stories of Black contribution to popular American culture; stories that have been erased in fashion, film, music and fine art. This third installment, “American, Also; Lesson 3” named “Sister”, pays homage to Sister Rosetta Tharpe the legendary, 1940s originator of Rock’n’Roll.
The show opened with vocals from Brent Faiyaz and a history lesson from Casey Gerald; who told a story of Fannie Moore. Moore was a former slave who vocalized her God given freedom in the middle of a violent conversation, after her “master” saw her not working. She explained to him that, “The Lord showed me the way.” In sharing that, Gerald begins the show by reminding us that we are free people. He says, “We ain’t your niggas anymore… We must know tonight, no matter how the slave master treated them and the world treats us, there is a freedom inside us… We’re here tonight to claim our wings.” Sitting in the audience felt both like a spiritual experience and protest.
A large, all Black choir and band filled silence with a R&B, HipHop and Gospel selection. Every model was Black and dialogue solely pertained to Black history and the Black experience. Some garments were constructed with artwork by recently exonerated artist, Richard Phillips to celebrate Ms. Tharpe’s legacy.
It would be hard to miss the strong Rock’N’Roll 60s & 70s references with the various double-breasted and single-breasted suit jackets. The straight-line relaxed trousers, layered and asymmetrical a-line skirts, sequin pointed boots, strong shoulders and subtle details of guitar shaped lapels and bags. Colors of red, pink, blue, gold/orange, black and white graced the runway while the band played and choir sang hits like Freak Like Me by Adina Howard and Sweet Love by Anita Baker. If Prince, Jimi Hendrix and Rick James had a concert, Lesson 3 is where I’d shop for my outfit.
Every garment on the runway made sense and was beautifully crafted. Seeing Rock’N’Roll fashion portrayed through the Black lens, in 2019 with Black music, Black models and Black band was a poetic act of resistance. It was disruptive, unapologetic, and specifically called out ways in which western society has taken from the Black woman. To witness this, in a White male dominated space, was moving, inspiring and something that has been lacking in fashion. I hope to see more of it.
Here are some of my favorite looks:
