Pharrell Williams Creative Director Debut at Louis Vuitton SS24

Pharrell’s call to action as creative director for Louis Vuitton was a smooth debut from Virgil Abloh’s passing. Louis Vuitton’s FW22 runway collection served as tribute honoring Virgil’s vision. In this SS24 show, you can see elements that could have/did influence Pharrell’s creative direction. In theme, fabrication, color, and silhouette, Pharrell’s show offered some ease in artistic transition while also introducing him as the new Menswear director. 

The unmistakable Pharrell camo designs were woven through pieces as “damoflage”, a fusion of the iconic LV Damier chess board pattern and Pharrell’s signature print. Damoflage makes perfect sense as it aligns with the history of Louis Vuitton and Pharrell’s creativity. Many pieces having pixelated prints also just make sense. Here’s where it gets sticky, Loewe’s SS23 Pixel capsule collection released a pixelated theme in April. Twitter critics are already claiming “Skateboard P” copied the idea from JW Anderson, Loewe’s creative director. But, true fans of Pharrell and BBC / Ice Cream know pixelated design has been part of his design assortment for a long time.

Both Menswear creative directors, Pharell and Virgil, referenced hip hop, used patchwork, created broad shoulders, men’s dress shorts, ankle length fur coats and incorporated women’s wear. In LV FW22 we saw veils, dresses and knit cover ups. In LV SS24, Pharrell not only had male models carry the historic Speedy bag, they’re now in bold colors and made of soft leather. 

For those of you who didn’t know, Louis Vuitton Speedy Bags were Gabrielle Chanel’s doing, yes, CoCo. She requested a small bag designed specifically for her that she could carry for travel, the Alma. The Alma evolved into the Speedy and was originally designed on one piece of canvas. The Speedy has been made out of all sorts of materials in the past and now leather is making a return. Here’s where it can get sticky, fashion has been making huge efforts (or attempts) at sustainability, namely with using “ethically sourced” materials. Let’s see how this goes, especially since it does not hold the same structured shape you get with canvas. 

Since Pyer Moss’ Collection 3 show in 2019, fashion runways have not seen the end of Black Church Choirs. What Kerby Jean did at Kings Theatre was amazing from creation, song selection, afterparty and catering. What came as a surprise was the trend of using choirs as background music for runway with predominantly white audiences.

African American gospel choirs were integral to our freedom, history and laid a foundation for many of our artistic experiences; like Pharrell’s Pentecostal upbringing. The voices of Black gospel choirs are captivating, awe inspiring, healing and move people in ways other means do not. Something so special being used in an environment where historically would have been disrespected and undervalued is a choice. Creatives that do identify with the Black American experience, should challenge themselves to express what that looks like in different ways because it’s become predictable and, I’d argue, a little lazy. 

What’s your take on Pharrell’s debut at Louis Vuitton? Did you find anything interesting? What’s your favorite piece? Did you learn something new? Talk to me.